Each side pocket cushion facing and cushion block bottom is relief cut so that the rail can be firmly seated on the play surface when the hospital fold side pocket technique is used. Each cushion facing is firmly bonded with adhesive and then reinforced with two heavy duty staples to keep it from sliding during the life of the rail. Again, attention to detail is what you can expect with Ridgeback rails. Each cushion and cushion facing are precisely fitted to the cushion block and then finish sanded so that your finished recovering has a smooth seamless appearance rather than visible lines that can be seen through the cloth on rails using die cut and/or razor cut finishing processes. This provides extra strength where the balls impact the ends of the rails and prevents the premature splitting of the cushion facing where the cushion and the wooden cushion block meet. Here you can see the two layers of reinforcing cloth that are molded into the cushion facing membrane. All components of each Ridgeback rails are the highest quality available, from the adhesives to the cushion facings. This means precision and consistency throughout each production run. Their machinery was designed and manufactured to their specifications specifically to make the Ridgeback rails. Each set of Ridgeback rails are made using state of the art equipment that assures the highest quality product from set to set. Please Note – Pocket size may vary due to table and/or model manufacturing tolerances. Side Pockets: 4 3/4″ mouth and 4″ throat. Corner pockets: 4 1/2″ mouth and 4 9/16″ throat.
#Valley pool table rails replacement professional#
The pocket openings for the Professional Edition Ridgebackrails are as follows. Ridge back rails Standard Edition are manufactured of clear kiln-dried poplar hardwood. New 7′ Valley Ridgeback Rail Standard Edition Replacement Rails. Repeat Steps 2 through 11 with each of the other five rails.Thank You For Shopping With Nielsen’s Billiards. Reinstall the rail to its original position, and tighten the nuts onto the rail bolts under the table. Trim any excess felt from the bottom of the rail. Tuck the corners around the ends of the bumper, and staple to the bottom. Work out from the center, pulling and adding a staple every two inches until the felt is secured to the bottom of the rail. Avoid pulling so tightly that the felt alters the shape of the bumper. Tack the felt in place with a staple along the bottom of the rail. Turn the rail upside down, and pull the felt slightly taut in the center of the rail. Tuck the top, long edge into the groove on top of the rail, and insert the metal strip to lock the felt in place. The slightly curved side of the new rail bumper should be facing upwards on the rail.Ĭut a six-inch wide strip of felt. Rough up the back side of the new bumper with some sandpaper to prepare it for adhesive.Īpply some adhesive to the back of the new bumper, and attach it to the wooden rail. Sand any glue residue from the rail with some sandpaper.Ĭut a new bumper to match the length of the previous bumper. Peel off the foam bumper from the wooden rail. Measure the length of the existing foam bumper with a tape measure. Remove and discard the old felt covering. Lift the metal strip out of the top of the rail. Pull out any broken staples with a pair of pliers. Turn the rail upside down, and remove all of the staples holding the felt to the rail with a flathead screwdriver.
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